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The Sensory Evaluation of Unroasted Cacao Beans as Coarse Powder, sometimes referred to as the “FCCI protocol” or the “field method,” was developed in 2015-16 by former chocolate maker Colin Gasko (Rogue Chocolate), Harvard University Lecturer Carla D. Martin, and Coffee Q-Grading Instructor Jamin Haddox. It has evolved to serve as a first screening method for cacao quality, accessible to all supply chain stakeholders -- especially producers -- that is simple, quick, and inexpensive to carry out.

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This method is now used as: 

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  • an assessment tool for cacao producers to evaluate quality in their harvest and post-harvest processing;

  • a knowledge and bargaining tool for producers to interact with cacao buyers (e.g. cooperatives, coyotes/local intermediaries, collectors, exporters, specialty chocolate companies);

  • a screening method by individuals or national organizing committees to determine which beans will be used to prepare samples for competitions such as the annual Cacao of Excellence awards;

  • a rapid method for cacao-chocolate supply chain companies to provide feedback to their stakeholders, primarily back to producers; and

  • a benchmarking tool for specialty cacao producers and/or traders to understand quality evaluation and basic sensory attributes.

 

Since its development, this protocol has undergone several years of rigorous testing, peer-review, and revision. The Working Group on the Development of International Standards for the Assessment of Cocoa Quality and Flavour determined that this protocol could serve as one of three consecutive mechanisms to evaluate cacao quality and flavor; the other two being chocolate liquor/mass and finished chocolate. All three protocols can be found in the Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour published by Cacao of Excellence. 

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Early adopters of the protocol also supported it in becoming a more accessible tool for cacao producers, such as the “field method” adaptation developed by Dandelion Chocolate Chief Sourcing Officer, Greg D’Alesandre, that allows for the protocol to be practiced without electricity.

 

FCCI’s primary vehicle to promote knowledge of this protocol and introduction to sensory evaluation was the Cacao Grader Intensive, a 3-day course designed to introduce individuals or communities to the dynamics of the specialty cacao and chocolate sector. The course was offered twenty-two times on four different continents in eight different languages, reaching over 1,500 course participants. Due to FCCI’s nonprofit mission, half of course attendees – cacao producers – attended tuition-free. The course was offered for the final time in Hawai’i, United States, in 2022.

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VIDEOS AND TOOLS

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Above all, we thank the 1,500 participants in our classes for joining us in the processes of learning and dreaming together. 

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For their leadership and support in developing the multiple facets of this protocol we wholeheartedly recognize (listed alphabetically by last name) Carolina Aguilar, Peggy Aviotti, Dolores Ixmucné Alvarado Rupflin, Gregory D’Alesandre, Jamin Haddox, Colin Gasko, Peter Giuliano, Renata Januszewska, John Kehoe, Brad Kintzer, Brigitte Laliberté, Cristina Liberati, José López Ganem, Carla D. Martin, Rick Peyser, Trish Rothgeb, Ed Seguine, Julien Simonis, Darin A. Sukha, and other members of the Working Group on the Development of International Standards for the Assessment of Cocoa Quality and Flavour. 

 

For their trust and participation, we are profoundly touched by the generosity of all colleagues who have participated in the many partnerships that sprouted from our teaching of the Cacao Grader Intensive. To our partners that made this space accessible to many, we recognize (listed alphabetically) Bluekoff, Conexión Chocolate, Catholic Relief Services, Chocoa, Chocolat Chapon, Coffee Quality Institute, CONABIO, Dandelion Chocolate, Dengo Chocolate, Equal Exchange, Gran Colombia Trading, Green Bean-to-Bar Chocolate, Hawaiian Chocolate and Cacao Association, International Executive Service Corps, Institute of Culinary Education, Kasetsart University, Lutheran World Relief-MOCCA, Northwest Chocolate Festival, SGG Philippines, Specialty Coffee Association, Stumptown Coffee, TCHO, University of Hawai’i at Manoa, Universidad San Francisco Quito, USAID, and USDA. A special mention to peers that have been involved with the Cacao Grader Intensive at different points is due to (listed alphabetically by last name) Sarah Bharath, Karen Bryant, Brian Cisneros, Chloe Doutre Roussel, Dave Elliott, Jessica Ferraro, Gino Dalla Gasperina, Karine Guillemette, Kristy Leissle, Michael Laiskonis, William Lydgate, Daniel O’Doherty, Adriana Reis Ferreira, Jill Sandique, Emily Stone, and Anthony Rue. 

 

For their financial and in-kind contributions to our work in the sensory space, our gratitude goes to the International Trade Center (ITC) and its team members William Castro Rodriguez, Gnilim Liora Gnassingbe-Essonam, and Cristina Reni. Through their desk we acknowledge the ongoing support of the European Union (EU), Organization of African, Caribbean and Pacific States (OACPS), and the United Nations (UN). 

 

We wish best of luck to the team of Cacao of Excellence in leading the work on cacao quality and flavor evaluation education among supply chain stakeholders and connoisseurs. 

 

Last, we are grateful to our peers Karina Archundia Bolaños, Dorine Kassi, Salvador Peribán, and Roy Sierra, whose tireless work on the first set of instructional videos will be replicated in many other countries, in a variety of languages, to make this protocol widely available to all. 

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